2020届服装与服饰设计(时装·针织·运动)专业优秀毕业作品展示

大师寄语 2020毕业 

亲爱的毕业生们，

To our dear graduates.

  

我们在时装行业和教育界已经从业多年，早已知道世事不可料，随时准备着兵来将挡，水来土掩。

In our (now long) careers in the Fashion Industry and education we have become accustomed to expect the unexpected, indeed, to welcome and embrace change and disruption.

然而，新冠疫情带来的颠覆和挑战，新经历，以及大封锁是我们从未经历过也是始料未及的。

However, It should come as no surprise that we have never encountered the disruption, the challenges and the multitude of  new experiences brought on by Covid19 and the ensuing lockdown that you dear students have overcome.

这可能是高等教育有史以来面对的最大挑战，但是你们并不畏惧，相反埋头苦干，利用这个契机，凭借毅力、创造力和幽默感创作出各色各样的卓越的创新解决方案。

Now you, as our graduates, will for ever be the cohort who, when faced with quite probably, the greatest of educational challenges and disruptions in the history of higher education, stepped up, ‘rolled up your sleeves’, showed fortitude, creativity, good humour and perseverance turning these immense challenges into the mere stepping stones of your diverse creative solutions. Creative solutions which have, at times, touched genius.

我们对你们这学期表现出的毅力和取得的成就大为褒奖，也对你们这四年来付出的努力，经历的喜怒哀乐，成功和困难感慨万千。由于受隔离的影响，我们今年未能面对面的教学，这令人遗憾，但是通过远程教学你们还是取得了优异成绩，对此我们深感欣慰。

We are all so proud of your fortitude and achievements over this semester certainly, but as the cumulation of four years hard work, highs, lows, successes and challenges. Our sadness at not sharing this experience more closely with you is balanced by the knowledge that we all have a shared experience of thriving in isolation whether in the next apartment building, next city or 6000 miles apart.

正所谓疾风知劲草，挑战激发出你们丰富的创造力，多样性和鲜明的个性，在毕业设计作品中淋漓尽致地体现出来，我们为你们骄傲！尽管未来世界不可预期，但是我们深信你们的才能必将会给世界的美好未来做出特殊贡献。

Perhaps the our greatest pride in your outstanding achievements lies in the creativity, diversity and individuality of your final projects. The future of the new normal world is by no means certain, but we do feel certain that you will all be well placed to make your various and unique contributions to a better future. 

离别之际，我们为你们献上最真挚的祝福！

With our warmest best wishes

在赞扬我们毕业生的同时，我想请你们一起感谢你们的教师和提供支持的其他人，因为正是他们代表了中方教学领导的远见卓识以及一个国际团队的齐心协力，推动了创意大学蓬勃发展。

In praising you our graduates, we know that you will join with us in recognising and thanking our teaching and support teams who have demonstrated to the entire world of higher creative education just how an international team, in close partnership and with the wisdom of our Chinese leaders, can pivot an entire creative University so fast and so effectively

最终，我们想说祸兮福之所倚，愿你们都苦尽甘来，早日成功！

And finally, form our own William Shakespeare:

Sweet are the uses of adversity,

Which like the toad, ugly and venomous,

Wears yet a precious jewel in his head.

葛丽婧教授&葛特立教授 

Prof. Jane Gottelier&Prof. Patrick Gottelier

一、硬汉柔情

Tenderness Tough Guy

设计师：张艺琼/Iris Zhang

作品介绍/Descriptions：

项目的灵感来源是中国传统文化中的蒙古摔跤。蒙古摔跤手在大多数人的印象中，都是粗犷的硬汉形象。但在我的调研中，最吸引我的是他们对家乡的热爱，对家庭的柔情，其中我的重点放在蒙古男子对婴儿的温柔上。像是满身纹身与肌肉的父亲怀中抱着刚刚出生的婴儿、父亲粗糙的手指在与婴儿的手触碰到时的温柔、以及父亲在表达对婴儿关怀的不同姿势等等。气球给我的感觉就像是婴儿一般柔软，于是我模仿父亲保护怀中婴儿的姿势，以不同方式抱着气球做一组摄影。我选择了海绵垫作为我尝试的一种材料，因为在整个项目中，父亲的柔情给我的感觉并不是单纯的软绵绵的温柔，而是有一些韧劲在其中，综合这两种，我用海绵垫做了立裁尝试，并不断进行转换。根据我的立裁过程，我继续发展了一组褶皱——肌肉男温柔地环环抱着怀中的婴儿。关于蒙古摔跤手我调研了许多不同的摔跤类型，从摔跤比赛以及日常所穿的服装类型等来研究。

The project was inspired by Mongolian wrestling in traditional Chinese culture. Most of people would consider Mongolian wrestlers as rugged tough guys. From my research, what attracts me most is their love for their hometown and tenderness for their families, which I focus on Mongolian tenderness for infants. Just like a tattooed and muscled father holds a newborn baby in his arms, the tenderness from father’s rough fingers by touching the baby’s hands and the different gestures when the father is expressing his care for the baby. I feel that the balloon is soft as a baby, so I imitated the gestures by which the father protects the baby in his arms and held the balloon in different ways to make a group of photos. I chose a spongy pad as a kind of material I used, because I found that in the whole process this father is not just about simple tenderness, but integrated with some tenacity. So I chose the sponge to have a try with draping and kept switching constantly. Based on my decision making process, I continued to develop a set of folds-the muscular man gently hugs the baby in his arms. I have researched a lot of different types of wrestling, from wrestling competitions to the types of clothing worn daily.

指导老师/Instructors：易心棋/Xinqi Yi

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

灵感来源于蒙古摔跤手和他们对孩子的柔情，然后发展了一个肌肉感爸爸和对孩子柔情的系列，非常好的主题，她发展有两个工作阶段，颜色和廓形都有很大的改变。将调研所得信息转化为面料，并通过立裁，对立体的雕塑型廓形进行了彻底探索。这整个系列都是经过详细构思的，颜色的趣味性和主题的契合，有意思的面料发展以及对细节的关注,是一个很成功的男装系列。

Inspired by Mongolian wrestlers and their tenderness for their children, and then the collection developed into a muse ‘father’s softness and love for their children’. It is such a nice topic and she also experienced working with 2 stages in terms of decision making for color palette and silhouette. Her research has been developed into textiles and a sculptural silhouette thoroughly explored through draping. The whole collection is thoughtful in concept, playful in color and highlights the theme using interesting textiles and details in this successful menswear collection.

二、自由女人像

Statue Of Free Women

设计师:曾啟航/Morandi

作品介绍/Descriptions：

我的灵感来源于一部巴基斯坦纪录片《河中女孩·宽恕的代价》，影片中的女孩没有服从父亲和叔叔的要求，就被“荣誉处决”，在河边枪杀，很幸运的是这个女孩活了下来并且用法律的武器与之抗衡，到现在巴基斯坦已经出台了相关法律：如果用“荣誉处决”杀掉女性将面临25年的监禁。想考到当代社会上女性也遇到同样的境遇，女性的穿着打扮都开始被限定了所谓的规则，这样规则束缚着我们，也影响着我们对于自己的认知，对自己的判断。我们应该像纪录片中的女孩站起来进行反抗——女性，在现代社会上，是一个独立的存在，不需要附着于任何其他的物质，我们也拥有着和男性同样的权利，女性当然也拥有穿衣自由的权利。最后用反讽的手法表达出系列主题。

My inspiration came from a Pakistani documentary “The girl in the river, The cost of forgiveness”. The girl in the film was “honor-executed” and shot dead by the river because of disobeying her father and uncle. Fortunately, she survived and began to fight with legal weapons. Up until now, Pakistan has issued relevant laws, that is if one kills a woman in the so-called “honor killing”, he will face a 25-year imprisonment.  Then, we also have the same situation in contemporary society? Therefore, women's dress appears to be limited by the some rules. We should stand up and fight like the girl in the documentary——Women, in modern society, are independent individuals, not adjuncts,  we have the same rights as men and women also have freedom of choosing  which clothes  to wear. Finally, a collection of themes are expressed in an ironic way.

指导老师/Instructors：Kristian Steinberg

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

曾啟航同学多才多艺，各方面能力卓群。作为 2019年“蕾虎呦桃青年学生时装比赛”初段大赛的冠军，曾啟航同学为学校带来了荣誉和成功，而她本人也从未止步！作为年轻设计师，她拥有的学术和技术技能，同时，她大胆并富有创意，是最有灵感的概念设计者之一。跨学科的综合才能，给了她在未来世界成功的最大可能，而未来的世界将被新领域和不断变化的行业所主宰。

Morandi is a multi award winning student whose excellent abilities spread across many areas. The winner of the “Labelhood Youtao Youth Student Fashion” competition, Morandi has already brought our school honor and great success and she shows no sign of stopping! She is a young designer with top academic and technical skills, and as a daring creative artist she is one of the most inspired concept creators. Her cross-disciplinary mix of talents makes her the most likely designer to succeed in the future world that will be dominated by new fields and ever-changing industries! 

曾啟航同学的作品充满智慧，整体一致，积极向上，传递着希望。最终毕设关于女性赋权，是最令人难忘的系列之一。她对未来世界的愿景，是我们都希望生活在其中的世界。她提出观点，并加以分析和实践，三者相辅相成。 创意、幽默感和深思熟虑使她脱颖而出。我们都应该为这位一直特别坚持努力，力求更好但又害羞腼腆的艺术家鼓掌。我们怀着激动的心情，期待这位最耀眼的明星，未来将带给我们怎样的惊喜! 

Morandi’s work is intellectual, holistic and carries a message of hope and positivity! Her final project was all about female empowerment and was one of the most memorable collections ever presented! Her vision for the future world is one, where we all would like to live, and her ideas go always hand in hand with appropriate analysis about practical implementation avenues!  The mix of creativity, a sense of humor and thoughtfulness is what makes Morandi stand out, and we should all celebrate this shy artist who never stops trying to become a better and more skilled designer! We wait with excitement to see what the future brings to one of our brightest stars! 

三、伊夫克莱因：抽象的色彩和具象的情绪

Yves Klein: the invisible color and visible emotion.

 

设计师：郑正雄/ZZ

作品介绍/Descriptions：

我的最终系列是围绕克莱因蓝以及我本人对克莱因作品的感受和理解为起点展开的一个时装系列。我的时装系列在表现概念的同时，会更关注于时装作为产品的特性和作用，而非一味追求作品的戏剧性和表达概念本身，因此这会是一个更加实穿和体现时尚观点的系列，旨在关怀消费者的需求和生活，而非设计者的表达和想法。我的这个系列由7套成衣组成，会在数量和比例上平衡表达概念的设计和将概念实用化表现的设计，其中将会有1个概念化的设计，2个将概念转移向实用服饰的设计，以及另外四款试图做到概念和产品特性的平衡。

My final collection is based on International Klein Blue (IKB) and my own private understanding and emotional feedback due to Klein’s work. What sets my collection apart from others, is my collection will be more concerned with its functional characteristics as a fashion product collection, rather than only pursuing the  creator’s dramatic opinion; my final collection is very wearable and reflects fashion opinions and cares for consumers’ needs and life. My collection, made up of 7 looks and will be balanced on its quantity and proportion of products of different kinds. One look will be a conceptual look with signature design of my own, and two are the ‘links’ between ‘conceptual and functional’, a further four, will be fully functional and commercial pieces.

 

指导老师/Instructors：Kristian Steinberg; Lesley De Freitas.

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

 

只有少数人有真正地时尚天赋，我们的毕业生郑正雄同学绝对是其中之一！ 一个能改变我们对时尚看法的设计师最是难能可贵，他需要的不仅仅是技能和时尚文化知识。 郑正雄同学是一位深刻的思考者，他将信手拈来的时尚感与情绪智力上的概念相结合，真正揭示了男装时尚界的新领域! 他的精湛工艺使他能够通过纺织品、色彩和廓形等媒介，讲述爱、自我认知和后现代人类状态！他的作品在完成这一切的同时，也为极简主义风格翻开了新的一页；我们中的许多人都是通过Helmut Lang和Raf Simmons的系列了解极简主义，也认为这是90年代末和00年代初的一种现象。而现在，极简主义再次盛行， 如果你需要被此感染，那么只需要去了解下郑正雄同学的毕设作品! 这一系列通过已故艺术家Yves Klein讲述故事，这名艺术家以实验艺术和克莱因蓝而闻名。

 

Few people can claim to have genuine fashion sense, but the graduate menswear designer ZZ is definitely one of them!  A designer who could change the way we think about fashion is even more rare and requires far more than just skills and knowledge about fashion and culture.  ZZ is a deep thinker and combines his fingertip sense of style with emotionally intelligent concepts that really reveal new territory in the menswear fashion landscape! His sophisticated techniques allow him to talk about love, self-knowledge and the post-modern human condition through the medium of textiles, colors and silhouettes! He does this all the while turning a new page in the book of minimalist style; something that many of us believe to have been a phenomenon of the late 90’s and early 00’s as told through the collections of Helmut Lang and Raf Simons.  Minimalism is relevant again, and if you needed to be convinced by this idea, all you have to do is to analyse the final collection of the multi talented ZZ! The powerful collection story is told through the prism of the late artist Yves Klein who is famous for his experimental art and the color Yves Klein Blue.

 

四、重塑 

remodeling

设计师：蔡信祎/Abby 

作品介绍/Descriptions：

随着互联网以及网购的普及，中国移动网购市场规模不断扩大。在中国，网购已成为人们生活的一部分，与之相伴的是，快递垃圾数量剧增。如只用一次的胶带、塑料袋、纸盒子等，给环境造成了严重的污染。以每个包裹使用1米胶带计算，2015年中国快递行业使用的胶带可以绕地球赤道425圈，全年约消耗编织袋31亿条、塑料袋82.68亿个、包装箱99.22亿个、胶带169.85亿米、内部缓冲物29.77亿个。于是我以“快递污染”作为切入点，进行了相关的调研发展。我以回收得到的废弃包装袋、胶带、纸盒等快递垃圾为原料，制作了新的面料，并将它作为我最终系列的成衣面料。呼吁人们在过度消费的同时思考给环境所带来的压力。

In pace with the popularity of the Internet and online shopping, the scale of China mobile’s online shopping market is expanding. In China, online shopping has occupied a position in people’s life. It is accompanied by a sharp increase in the amount of express garbage, such as only one-time adhesive tape, plastic bags, cardboard boxes, causing serious pollution to the environment. In the light of the use of 1 meter of adhesive tape for each package, in 2015, the adhesive tape used by China’s express delivery industry can circle the Earth’s equator 425 times. What’s more, in the whole year, it consumed about 3.1 billion woven bags, 8.268 billion plastic bags, 9.922 billion packing boxes, 16.985 billion meters of adhesive tape and 2.977 billion internal buffers. Therefore, I took “express pollution” as a starting point to carry out relevant research and development.With the recycled and waste packaging bags, adhesive tapes, cartons and other express wastes as raw materials, I made a new fabric and used it as my final collection of ready-to-wear fabric.Finally, it was presented in the form of a menswear collection, hoping to appeal to people to think about the harm their behavior will bring to the environment while overconsuming.

指导老师/Instructors：Xinqi Yi 易心棋

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

由中国的包装浪费现象作为灵感来源，应对当下热门话题可持续性， 一个特别原创的男装系列。利用身边触手可及的材料进行了非常深入的发展了纺织面料改造。再利用，面料升级，以及结合创意针织，面料，成衣设计都很出色。巧妙而精致的男装色调，并将包装盒的形状融入到廓形中，出色的创意裁剪,成功的完成了一个非常完整的毕业系列。

Inspired by the waste packaging in China . cope with the HOT TOPIC sustainability, a very original developed menswear collection . Sophiscated textile with surrounding material , recycling ,upcycling ,with very original knit experimental.Abby has succeeded in producing a very accomplished and thorough final collection where fashion and textiles are equally exceptional . A clever and sophisticated menswear colour palette and brilliant creative pattern cutting.

五、新女性

Hidden Beauty

设计师：寿振玉/Hayley 

作品介绍/Descriptions：

当人们谈论起新时代女性，往往会想到独立精致的都市女性。然而在我看来人们常常忽视的社会底层阶级，例如工厂女工、环卫女工等等。他们虽然经常穿着制服，却在一些细节中展现着自己对于美的追求。他们有些人会在统一单调的制服外搭配一些袖套、头巾、围裙等等等，又或者是利用绳子等改造一些衣服。即便这些东西是方便他们在工作时不弄脏制服，但也融入了他们独一无二的审美。 这些独立坚强的女性的穿着方式让我获得了灵感，使我想要重现他们的面貌。

When talking about the women in the new era, people tend to think of the independent and delicate urban women. However, in my opinion, people often ignore the working class, such as factory and sanitation workers. Even though they wear uniforms, their pursuit of beauty is revealed in some of the details. Some of them match their uniform with over-sleeves, headbands and aprons, whilst some alter their clothes by tying them up. These accessories are to protect their uniforms from getting dirty, the unique beauty appreciation is integrated， and in this way these strong , independent women themselves have inspired me.

指导老师/Instructors：Angelou 朱安哲

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

寿振玉的作品是对工作女性的致敬。系列旨在把工作服更新和现代化，是一个非常好的主题。整个系列对女性穿着工装的方式调研得十分深入，同时，重新解读这种穿衣方式的角度也十分聪明。设计发展过程非常完整，包含大量的实验、细节设计以及配饰设计。面料选择、辅料选择都很切合主题的同时又十分符合当下的审美。剪裁技术以及面料设计的完成度都非常专业。整体来说是一个很有创新性的、当代的和很令人有购买欲的系列。非常杰出的作品！

Hayley’s work is a tribute to the working women. The collection aims to update and modernize workerwear. A very good theme. She has done a thorough research into the ways the working women wear their uniforms, and her reinterpretations of them are very smart. The whole collection is very well thought through, with extensive amount of experiments, detail designs and accessory designs. Fabric and trimming choices are relevant to the contemporary fashion and work very well with your theme. Both the cutting techniques and textile designs were executed to a professional level. Overall, this is a very innovative, contemporary and desirable collection. Exceptional work!

六、夏尔巴人

Sherpa

设计师：郑颖/Melody

作品介绍/Descriptions：

我的灵感来源于纪录片《珠峰清道夫》，讲述了夏尔巴人们建立一个登山队伍去清理珠峰上的垃圾，恢复原始的雪白珠峰。这是一项非常危险的任务，但夏尔巴人依旧毫不犹豫地去完成，这深深触动了我。作为服装设计师的我，我希望服装行业要减少对环境产生的污染。我想要为夏尔巴人去设计出可降解的登山装。通过调研和各种尝试后，我将自己做的可降解生物塑料结合中国贵州侗族传统手工艺的天然面料去进行设计制作我的最终毕业设计——新型可降解环保登山装。

My inspiration is from the documentary called “CLEANING MOUNT EVEREST”, which tells the story of The Sherpa setting up a team to go to Mount Everest to clean up the garbage and restore the original white of Mount Everest. It is very dangerous, but the Sherpa still go without hesitation, which touches me a lot.As a fashion designer, what I can at least do is to reduce pollution in the fashion industry. I would be honored if I could design degradable， environmentally friendly climbing wear for the Sherpa. After a great deal of research and various attempts,  I have combined natural environmentally friendly fabrics made by traditional craftsmanship with a new type of biodegradable bioplastic， to create a new biodegradable environmentally friendly climbing apparel.

指导老师/Instructors：Kristian Steinberg

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

凡是见过郑颖同学的人，都会记得她充满感染力的笑容和积极面对困难的态度。而这种态度，一旦和天赋和清晰的创意理念结合，便造就了未来时尚界的完美设计师。

Anybody who has met Melody, will remember her infectious smile and positive attitude to every problem she faces! This attitude married with talent and a clear creative vision, has made her stand out as the perfect designer for the future fashion industry! 

郑颖同学的最终系列不仅仅是一个有趣而时尚的男装系列，更是关于可持续的生动课程，行业内所有人都应该学习和借鉴。整个系列由手工编织的面料和可生物降解的塑料完成，讲述了夏尔巴人在珠穆朗玛峰上清理垃圾的故事。郑颖同学的设计可穿戴性强，时尚，并在每一环节都注意减少对环境的影响。要实现这些特点，需要通过不断的创意开发和研究过程，而这也反映了行业内一些优秀设计师的工作实践。我们对郑颖同学的未来前景充满期待，她是时尚行业所需要的年轻设计师。世界需要更多像她这样有责任感的设计师，而随着消费者对环保意识的不断提高，我们相信郑颖同学将在改变时尚行业的过程中扮演重要角色。 

Her final collection was more than an interesting and fashion forward menswear collection. It was a lesson in sustainability that everyone in the industry should learn from and be inspired by! The hand made textiles and biodegradable plastic materials were made into a collection that told the sad story about leftover rubbish on the pristine Mount Everest.  Melody always develops designs that are wearable, modern and minimize environmental impact at every step.  This is achieved by constant development of ideas and a research process that mirrors the working practices of some of the best in the industry. We could not be more impressed and excited about Melody‘s future prospects, and she is the kind of young designer that the fashion industry needs! The world needs more responsible visionaries like her and as consumers are becoming evermore educated about environmentalism, we are sure that Melody will fill an important role in changing the fashion industry for the better!  

七、独特男孩

UNIQUE BOY

设计师：肖德亮/DEVIN

作品介绍/Descriptions：

以绘画艺术家Tamara de Lempicka为灵感，因为艺术家拥有鲜明的色彩对比以及棱角分明的线条，而Tamara的绘画中，充满许多装饰元素与丰富的色彩，所以我希望以此来打破以往沉闷平淡无奇的男装风格，我希望装饰和时尚不在是以女性为主导，给男装增加鲜明的色彩，有趣的廓形，重新定义男装，使男装变得更加的时尚。所以在最终设计中我将传统男装创新发展同时与3D花边结合，让人们知道原来男装也可以有更多有趣丰富的可能。

Inspired by artist Tamara de Lempicka, whose work has distinct color contrast and sharp lines. Her paintings are full of many decorative elements and rich colors, which I used to break the boring and ordinary style of men's wear. In my collection I feel that my codes of  decoration and fashion are not only dominated by womenswear , adding bright colors and interesting silhouettes, redefining men's wear and making it more fashionable. So in the final design, I have combined the innovation and development of traditional men's wear with 3D embellishment to let people know that the original men's wear can also have more interesting and rich possibilities.

指导老师/Instructors：Lesley de Freitas ,Kristian Steinberg

导师推荐理由/Recommendations）：

男装时尚的复兴，是对大街上单调而又大量生产的服装的反击，而最能给这个市场带来希望的设计师就是肖德亮同学！这位轻声细语的设计师，他的最终系列却是对现代男装时尚的大声疾呼--在无与伦比的驱动力下实现的一种绝对完美。 精致的色盘进一步提升了极度复杂的剪裁，这是业内大多数时装公司都艳羡的专业水准！ 真丝花边的设计，为廓形增添了一点扭曲，为我们带来男装设计中前所未有的组合。

The renaissance in menswear fashion has been a reaction against the monotone and mass-produced clothing on our high street, and the perfect designer to bring some hope to this hungry market is Devin Xiao! The softly spoken designers final collection was a loud and clear statement about modern menswear fashion – a vision that was developed with an unparalleled drive for nothing less than absolute perfection. The sophisticated color palette elevated the ultra complex pieces of tailoring to a professional standard that is the envy of most fashion houses in the industry! The silk ruffles added a twist to the statement silhouettes and gave us a combination that really has never been seen in men’s fashion! 

作为设计师，肖德亮同学不仅在技术上很有能力，还拥有其他方面的许多才能，帮助他清晰地发展出一个完整的概念性理念！他是一位出色的插画师、裁缝师，拥有将实验想法融入现实世界的独特天赋。他完美地执行了自己革命性的想法，让人不禁有更多期待。我们迫不及待地希望肖德亮的独特世界能够被发现!

Devin is a designer who is not only technically capable, but has many other talents that help him to develop a total conceptual vision with absolute clarity! He is an accomplished illustrator, tailor who has the unique talent of anchoring experimental ideas into the real world. His revolutionary ideas are executed perfectly and leave us wanting more and we cannot wait for the world to discover the unique world of Devin Xiao!

 

八、失焦

Out Of Focus

设计师：陈子川/Hugh  

作品介绍/Descriptions：

下班回家的一段路上，我时常会因疲乏摘下眼镜，昏暗的灯光下，小路显得黑暗狭窄，周围的一切在我模糊的视线里扭曲和改变。我加快脚步，但无法抗拒的压迫感向我侵来，奇怪的触感和声音似乎带我进入了另一个时空。这改变了我的感知，也成为了我进一步研究的基础。我逐渐意识到，在这段路上我害怕的原因是情绪影响了内心，学业，事业以及其他方面给了我很大的压力。这种感觉让我怀疑自己，所以我决定在同龄人中调研，结果发现学业、职业和经济上的压力是这个年龄段(Z时代)在中国当前环境下的常见问题。同时我发现我们的两个特点；“生活像素化”与“白日空想化”。 结合这两个特点，我又回到这段路，希望创造一个我感受到的时空，来展现我这一代人(Z时代)所面临的问题。

After work，on the way home，I often take off my glasses  because of exhaustion.  In my blurred vision, the path is made darker and narrower by the dim light, which can leave me in a state of panic.  Everything around me becomes gradually distorted, and an overwhelming sense of pressure descends over me. The sensation of touch and sound seem heightened and surreal.  My pace quickens but I feel trapped in the space and in that of my perceptions.  This phenomenon has been used as a base for further research. I've come to realize that the reason I was so scared when I took this path was because of how my heightened emotions affect my heart; academic difficulties; employment problems, and other aspects of various pressures upon me caused excessive stress.This sense of confusion made me question myself so I decided to research amongst my peers, it turns out that the stress from academic, career, and financial issues are common problems for my age group (generation Z) in the current environment. And I found that Generation Z in China, including me, has two characteristics when facing the confusion of the future，one is "Life pixel-ism", the other is"daydreaming".After summarizing these two characteristics, the perspective returns to this dark and narrow path, I wanted to create a parallel space that I felt, to represent what my generation （Generation Z） was facing.

指导老师/Instructors：Angelou 朱安哲

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

系列开始于在这个数码社会中的自身感受，其中包含大量第一手调研与自身情感。这是一个很好的调研方式。陈子川对针织设计的解读十分独特、新颖，打破了人们对针织设计的常规印象。虽然系列中所使用的针织技术是常见的，但他使用的方式极具创意，简单但却具有很强的视觉效果。这样的创新是难能可贵的。在细节设计方面，面料的结构设计（如空转）与剪裁技术相辅相成，使整件衣服的完结工艺看上去浑然一体。这是一个很精致的系列。非常杰出的作品！

The collection started from the designers’ personal experiences of this digital society, which includes extensive amount of first-hand research and emotions. It is an excellent way to start the research. Hugh’s understanding of knitwear is unique and fresh, very different from the usual conception of knitwear. The techniques that were utilized in this collection are common knitwear techniques, however, the way he utilized these techniques is very creative, simple and yet effective. The detail designs and finishings are well considered. For example, the tubular technique echoes very well with the cutting techniques. A very delicate collection. Exceptional work!

九、在中间

in-between

设计师：伊冰清/Icy 

作品介绍/Descriptions：

在这个系列中，icy尝试打破了旗袍原有的廓形，做了一些比较抽象、立体的旗袍。试图改变大众对亚洲女性以及旗袍的刻板印象和固有观念。她将衣物作为表达自己观念的媒介，通过调研不同电影中的东方女性形象，剖析女性身份集体无意识的形成，再借由服装让外在的人格更加立体，实现东方女性角色身份的再创造，呈现多元的，独立的人物群像。

In this collection, Icy tried to break the original shape of the cheongsam by introducing more abstract and three-dimensional silhouettes. In doing so， she tried to change the stereotypes and inherent concepts of Asian women and cheongsam. She uses garments as a medium for expressing her own concepts by investigating imagery of oriental women in different films； analyzes the collective unconscious formation of female identity, and then uses garments to make the external personality more three-dimensional, to achieve the re-creation and presentation of the identity of oriental female characters. 

icy利用lumen print 的技术去展示了新系列的印花，lumen print是一种80年代的摄影技术，通过将静物直接放在相基纸上曝光得到具有立体效果的平面的图像。它所呈现出来的“花”是具象但虚幻的。对比20年代服装中抽象平面的花的造型，用lumen print制作出来的具象立体的影像更符合当下的审美。

Icy used the technology of lumen print （a photographic technology in the 1980s）but used in a contemporary context by obtaining a flat image with a three-dimensional effect by exposing the flowers directly on photographic paper. The "flowers" it presents are figurative but unreal. Comparing the shape of the abstract flat flowers in the clothing of the 1920s, the stereoscopic images created by lumen print are more in line with the current aesthetic.

指导老师/Instructors：Lesley de Freitas

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

在毕设中，伊冰清同学展现出与生俱来的时尚感和敏锐度，并很聪明地对中国传统服装廓形进行了现代演绎。 在设计发展中，伊冰清同学深思熟虑，采用了极具个性的原创女性手笔，个人认为非常适合年轻、新兴的中国服装设计师潮流。 以简约内敛的方式，对旗袍和中山装进行了现代改造，但又不失细节，显示了作为设计师的成熟技巧。伊冰清同学勤勉认真， 听取建议，发展出原创的“蓝晒”印花，色彩协调，并通过发展和调研，对廓形进行立裁和绘制，最终呈现出一个精美的系列作品， 据包括英国皇家艺术学院纺织学院荣誉教授Clare Johnston和中央圣马丁前课程总监，英帝国勋章获得者Willie Walters 教授在内的外部评审看来，她的作品可以直接进入任何一家精品买手店售卖。作为设计师，她聪明有才华，并具备一套合适的专业技能，学校可为之骄傲。我们预祝她成功!

Icy has demonstrated an innate sense of style and sensitivity in updating the Chinese silhouette in a contemporary and intelligent way for her graduation project.  The development of her ideas has taken a very considered and very individual, original feminine handwriting, which I feel is entirely appropriate for the new wave of young, Chinese fashion designers emerging.  She modernises the Qipao and the traditional Chairman Mao Jacket in a minimal, restrained way, but without sacrificing detail; this shows a maturity in her skills as a designer.  She has been diligent in following advice, developing her own original lumen prints which are colour co-ordinated, whilst drafting and draping her own silhouette, through the process and research she conducted.  Icy has presented a beautiful collection that was exquisitely presented, and in the opinion of all concerned, including Professor Clare Johnston Emeritus Professor of Textiles at the Royal College of Art, and Professor Willie Walters MBE former Course Director of Central Saint Martins UAL, ‘shop ready’ for a contemporary boutique buyer shop environment. She has developed a set of skills that are entirely appropriate, for a professional and intelligent designer of whom the school can be proud.We wish her success!

十、The Border

设计师：邹雅欣 Della

作品介绍/Descriptions：

在廓形的发展中我运用不合身的概念，做了两组实验，进一步探索了服装在人体上的度。电影中的很多画面带给我强烈的视觉冲击，而这些颜色的选择都源自人物的心理反应。因此我运用了心理色作为我这次系列的色板。

In the development of the silhouette, I used the concept of “ill-fitting” to make two sets of experiments， in order to further explore the degree of clothing on the human body.Many pictures in the movie deliver a strong visual impact to me, and the choice of these colors comes from the psychological reaction of the characters. So I used psychological color as the color palette for my collection.

指导老师/Instructors：易心棋 Xinqi Yi

导师推荐理由/Recommendations：

邹雅欣的灵感来源于电影以及引发了对感官剥夺的思考。发展了一个非常复杂而具有深意的系列。 在发展过程中你有特别多有意思的想法和创意,因为自我反省，你决定在一个时间改变表现方式，这很勇敢也很挑战。 我相信在此基础上你肯定学习了很多。由于疫情你没能完成整个系列，但是这个系列的样衣非常的成功，我相信在此基础上你一定可以做个特别棒的系列。

Della is inspired by the film and interested in sensory isolation. You have developed a very complex and sophisticated collection. You have had so many great ideas throughout the whole process and have been thorough in your serious self-critique， deciding to change your way of expressing your ideas, which has been extremely challenging and brave . I believe you must have learned a great deal through the whole process . Due to Pandemic, you were unable to deliver the whole final collection, but your toiles have been made exceptionally well, and are good enough.  I believe you can make a brilliant collection based on where you are!